Monday, April 16, 2018

CJ7 Fuel Tank Fill & Vent Hose Replacement

When installing the new rear bumper I noticed that the fill and vent hoses were hard and cracked.

Ordered a new MTS set from Barney's Jeep Parts on ebay.

Fuel Tank Fill Hose • MTS CJFHCJ7-20
Fuel Tank Vent Hose • MTS CJVHCJ7-20
These are for the OEM 20 gallon plastic tank.

Friday, April 13, 2018

CJ7 Dog Harness

Decided to come up with a dog harness and restraint for the Jeep.

I first designed and made a cushion in the console area for Cooper, my English Bull Terrier, to sit comfortably when we take off for the mountains.

The rest of this post is a work in progress as I figure it out...

3 Yards - 1" Heavyweight Polypropelene Webbing • W-PP-01 1000
2 each - 1" Single Adjusting Side Release Buckle • B-SR-02 1000
1 each - 1" Stainless Welded D-Ring • B-DR-02WS 1000
1 each - 1" Wide Mouth Single Bar Slides • B-SB-02 1000

Found these 1" webbing anchors from
These will mount to the rear inside seat riser bolts.

xx Yards - 1" Heavyweight Polypropelene Webbing • W-PP-01 1000
1 each - 1" Contoured Single Adjusting Side Release Buckle • B-SR-03 1000
2 each - 1" Wide Mouth Single Bar Slides • B-SB-02 1000
2 each - 1" Heavy Ladder Locks • B-DB-02USA 1000
3 each - 1" Stainless Welded D-Ring • B-DR-02WS 1000

Seat Belt Construction:

The easiest way to cut webbing is to use an electric soldering gun like a Weller or this cheap Harbor Freight unit.  Take a piece of 10 gauge (12 will work) solid copper wire, flatten a section of it with a hammer and shape it like shown above.  I used the ground wire from a scrap piece of household Romex.  Insert it into the soldering gun and it will cut and melt the edge at the same time.  Works as well as units costing $150.

Here is the anchor loosely bolted into position.

Used 92 bonded nylon thread to stitch an "X" box to secure the 1" webbing to the anchors.

Used two sided basting tape from to hold the webbing in place prior to stitching.

Wrapped a length of 1" webbing through each buckle.  Buckle to buckle is 1 1/2".  Triple stitched each end.

Wrapped another piece of webbing around the first for the D-ring.  It is easier to mark the "X" box prior to stitching.

Used Tex 92 bonded poly black thread and a #22 needle to stitch the "X" box.

Here is the finished product after securing the anchors to the seat riser bolts.  By using two buckles it iis easy to center the D-ring on the cushion.  In use, only one buckle needs to be released in order to insert or remove the cushion.

Close up off the finished D-Ring assembly.

Harness Construction:

Put some painters tape on the dog and drew up a rough pattern with a sharpie.  Peeled it off and stuck it down flat on some paper.  Then drew a line up the center and cut along the line.

Take the better looking side and, on a folded piece of pattern paper, trace the outline with a pencil.

Using a pencil and eraser, clean up the curves and then cut it out; being careful not to cut the fold.

Unfold it and you'll have the breast plate pattern.  The lengths of the three  legs still need to be trimmed, but that will happen in the next process.

More to come...

Sunday, March 25, 2018

Raptor Touch Up

Here is a simple post.

I had a few places where the Raptor liner had popped off.  These were less than the diameter of a pencil eraser.  I didn't have any Raptor lying around so started poking around at what I did have.  Did a little experimenting and this is what I came up with.

Wipe the area with some rubbing alcohol.  Thin some GB liquid tape with Naphtha (not too thin).  Then taking an acid brush trimmed as shown, dab the liquid tape on the bare area creating a stippled effect.  It may take two or three applications.

The sheen and texture is near perfect. 

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Jeep CJ7 Fresh Air Box Restoration

PART 2 of 2
Lower Heater Restoration Link
  • Spring: Hillman #543210 (shortened to 3 1/4")
  • Push Nuts (for damper pivots): Dorman 961-345D - found at O'Reilly's
  • Foam: McMaster #86225K57 1" w/adhesive (24" square)
  • Eastwood Flexible Strip Caulk 13524
  • Damper Paint: Rustoleum Satin Black Professional
  • Linkage Paint: Dupli-Color low gloss engine enamel
  • There is no need to remove the dash.  I did loosen the right side dash bolts to provide a little extra room and the glove box was removed.
  • Tilt the windshield forward and remove the defroster duct.
  • Unscrew the speedometer cable and slide it all the way into the engine compartment.
  • Remove the heater cables from the air box and the dash.
  • Remove the resistor wire (the red terminal on the passenger end of the air box).
  • On the engine side of the firewall, remove the drain vent.
  • Remove the cowl vent screws and then the four screws attaching the air box to the cowl.
  • The top of the air box can then be rotated away from the firewall allowing the drain vent to come out of the hole.
  • Once the drain hole is free, drop and slide the air box to the right and out the passenger side door.

Disassembly: Front

Disassembly: Top

Disassembly: Back

Disassembly: Passenger side damper pin.

Disassembly: Driver side recirculation damper linkage.

Disassembly: Driver side recirculation damper linkage.

Disassembly: Driver side recirculation damper linkage.

Disassembly: Main damper linkage.

Disassembly: Main damper linkage.

Disassembly: Main damper linkage. Note: Missing Spring

Disassembly: Main damper linkage.

Disassembly: Resistor

Disassembly: Interior dampers.

Disassembly: Upper heater unit parts.


Parts dunked in Evapo-Rust, cleaned, and painted.  Used Rustoleum satin black on the dampers and Dupli-color low gloss black ceramic engine enamel on the hardware... also rubbed on some Min-Wax wiping poly on the springs and washer nuts and lubed the cable.

Separated box halves, cleaned and treated with Protect-All vinyl preservative.

Inside view.

Using 1/8" diameter, 5/16"grip aluminum pop rivets and aluminum washers to rejoin the halves.
Using 1/8" diameter, 1/4" grip steel pop rivets and steel washers on the two brackets.

Got a chance to use the Craftsman hydraulic pop riveter that my Dad bought to help me turn my 1969 VW into a Baja Bug.

Brackets riveted on using the steel pop rivets (inside).

Brackets riveted on using the steel pop rivets (outside).

Passenger side damper reinstalled.  Note that the damper shafts are flat on one side and only go in one way.

Driver side damper reinstalled.  The damper was sticking so I trimmed a little rubber all the way around.

Box reassembled (front).  Laid a bead of the strip caulk between the halves (encircling the rivet locations).  Used aluminum rivets with steel shafts with an aluminum washer on both sides.  Worked well.

Box reassembled (rear).  Note the new gasket cut from the 1" foam.  The original thicker gasket was 1/2", so cut the thickness on the new one to 3/4"  to allow for greater compression.

Here is the main damper mechanism reassembled.  I painted all the parts, but the paint will ultimately scrape off in contact areas.  The idea was to protect the rest of the areas from rust.  This is the new spring (trimmed to 3 1/4" overall).

Driver side damper mechanism reassembled.

Originally, I laid a double row of the strip caulk as a waterseal.  It got ruined in the process of reinstalling the air box into the Jeep.

Instead, I laid about four rows of strip caulk on the underside of the cowl opening making sure to surround all of the screw holes.  This worked perfectly.

The air box did not go in as easily as it came out.  I had to disconnect the speedometer cable (sliding it all the way back into the engine compartment) and remove all of the heater cables.

All that is needed now is to hook up the resistor connector and install the lower heater unit.

Hope you enjoyed this post!

Monday, February 12, 2018

Jeep CJ7 Storage Box

Needed lockable storage for road trips.

Decided on the UWS Storage Locker in aluminum diamond plate.
  • UWS 36 Footlocker
  • Overall Dimensions: 36" long x 19-1/4" wide x 12" deep
  • Width Dimension (not including lid): 35 1/4" which leaves 3/8" clearance on each side
  • Made up two 15" long support risers from 2" x 1" x 1/8" steel U-channel so the lid would clear the height of the wheel wells and leave some room to slide objects underneath.
Lining up the box with the front of the step in the tub behind the seats, measured and drilled holes in the channel and mounted it to the tub.  Then sat the box on the channels and marked the outline of the channel legs onto the bottom of the box.

Drilled 1/4" holes in the bottom of the box within the marked outlines, then sat the box back on the channels and transferred the holes in the box to the channels.

With the holes in the channels marked, they were removed, 5/16" holes drilled and then tightened 5/16" bolts and nuts to all eight holes.

Used 3/32 6011 rods at 85 amps to tack the nuts to the channel.  First time welding in 40 years... I'm happy.

The box is almost a chrome finish.

 It just looked too new so decided to scuff it up with fine ScotchBrite.