Monday, February 12, 2018

Jeep CJ7 Storage Box

Working on this blog entry... check back for more details.

Needed lockable storage for road trips.

Decided on the UWS Storage Locker in aluminum diamond plate.
  • UWS 36 Footlocker
  • Overall Dimensions: 36" long x 19-1/4" wide x 12" deep
  • Width Dimension (not including lid): 35 1/4" which leaves 3/8" clearance on each side
  • Made up two 15" long support risers from 2" x 1" x 1/8" steel U-channel so the lid would clear the height of the wheel wells and leave some room to slide objects underneath.

The box is almost a chrome finish.

 It just looked too new so decided to scuff it up with fine ScotchBrite.



Friday, February 9, 2018

Jeep CJ7 Heater Restoration

These are the final photos of the finished lower heater rebuild using the "Blazer Motor Upgrade".

Following is a description of the disassembly and reassembly and a list of parts used in the process.



PART 1 of 2
Part 2 of 2 Link

Inspired by this guy: Heater Upgrade
  • Fan Motor: Napa BK 6551039
  • Spring: Ace #102
  • Push Nuts (for damper pivots): Dorman 961-345D - found at O'Reilly's
  • Foam: McMaster #86225K53 1/4" w/adhesive (24" square)
  • Foam: McMaster #86225K57 1" w/adhesive (24" square)
  • Eastwood Flexible Strip Caulk 13524
  • Rubber firewall washers: 20Pcs Black Rubber Bumpers J9B4
  • Firewall Hole Saw:  Irwin (mandrel type) 3 5/8" diameter
  • Metal Paint: Rustoleum Satin Black Professional
  • Plastic Housing Paint: Dupli-Color low gloss engine enamel (wipe with lacquer thinner first to promote bonding)
  • Heater Core: Autozone Transpro #846071-399210 (make sure it has the silver L-bracket welded onto the hose side)
Removal: Open glove box door, remove inside box insert. Unplug fan resistor wires, disconnect control cables from door levers (only the ones that come in from the dash). Remove the defroster duct flexible hose from the top of the box. Go under the hood. Disconnect the wire from the blower motor, heater hoses. Remove the nuts from the studs that hold the box to the firewall, don't forget the one behind the valve cover. Go inside the Jeep, pull the box back and may have to tilt it down in the rear a little to clear the firewall. I had mine out in about 15 minutes. 

When I reinstalled mine, I put a self-tapping screw into the motor mounting flange with a ground wire attached to it. This way I knew the Blazer motor had a good clean ground.

Disassembly


Disassembly: Battery tray.

Disassembly: Fender/battery tray brackets.

Disassembly: Fender/battery tray brackets.

Disassembly: Firewall coupling nut ground connections/heater hose connections.

Disassembly: 

Disassembly: Remove glove box.

Disassembly: Remove seats (unless you are a contortionist).

Disassembly: Heater hose connections.

Disassembly: Taped a small bucket to firewall to capture coolant.

Disassembly: Hung heater hoses to hood to prevent further coolant drainage.

Disassembly: Disconnect heater control cable and defroster duct.

Disassembly: Lower heater box; back.  Note: dried and cracked rubber mounting washers.
Note: Four mounting bolt locations (one is directly behind valve cover).

Disassembly: Fresh air box; top.  Note: gasket.

Disassembly: Fresh air box; top.  Note: gasket.

Disassembly: Defroster duct; top.  Cable brackets.

Disassembly: Defroster duct; top.  Cable bracket.

Disassembly: Heater duct; bottom.  Cable brackets.

Disassembly: Heater duct; bottom; duct speed nut and screw.  Cable bracket.

Disassembly: Interior defroster damper/washer.

Disassembly: Interior heater dampler, cable connection/lock washer.

Disassembly: Cable bracket and cable clamp.

Disassembly: Cable bracket assembly.

Disassembly: Fresh air box; cable connection.

Disassembly: Fresh air box; right side

Disassembly: Fresh air box; left side; metal washer and spring washer.

Disassembly: All lower heater box parts

Usw a circle template to find the center of the existing hole in the firewall.  Screw a piece of plywood to the firewall, mark the center of the hole.  Drill a pilot hole for the mandrel hole saw.  Drill new hole with 3 5/8" diameter bit.  I ultimately filed off the sharp points where the two motor and electrical connection holes converge.  Before proceeding, I test mounted the back panel with the motor mounted and the fit was good.  File opening and use black liquid electrical tape to finish the edge of the new hole.


Reassembly







Disassembly:  New fan motor on left, OEM fan motor on right


Lower heater box back panel painted and new motor installed. Used the rubber feet listed above for the firewall washers.

Lower heater box back panel painted and new squirrel cage mounted.  The Napa motor shaft is a perfect fit.

Painted dampers and cable bracket.

1/4" foam on dampers. Make template before removing old foam. Scratch an awl line on damper before removing to use as a guide in placing new foam.

New 1" foam gasket (bandsaw worked great, coping saw on large inside hole, 3/4" hole punch").
Laying out holes required some drafting skills, and a compass. Laid it out on the paper backing (make sure to lay it out in reverse).

Inside heater box; pre-assembly.

Decided to use Eastwood Flexible Strip Caulk (also known as "dum-dum") instead of RTV to attach the front heater box to the rear panel.  May use it to seal the Upper heater unit to the cowl as well.  Does not harm paint, stays pliable and fills gaps well.

Lay out the strips in the middle of the seam and around each screw then screw the back panel to the front plastic housing.  Fill in with more caulk where there are gaps.  I used a wet finger to smooth out the joint much like household caulking.

Here is the new foam gasket that will fit between the upper and lower heater unit as an air seal.

 Finished front.

Finished rear.

Next will be the upper heater unit.

Part 2 of 2 Link


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Saturday, January 20, 2018

Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Jeep CJ7 Leather Glovebox Bra... stuff keeps falling out


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Stuff keeps falling out on the floor of the Jeep when opening the glovebox.
Decided to make a leather bra.

Used 8 ounce veg-tan leather. 

Took a piece of paper and rubbed it along the glovebox opening to create a pattern.  Transferred it to the leather and cut it out.

Stitched a along the top contoured border to stiffen and give some style.

Wet the leather and used a ballpeen hammer to stipple the surface for a little texture.  Also matches my holster and gun belt.

Dyed the leather with Feibings Professional Oil Dye.

Built a wood form to form the 90ยบ bends in the flaps that will be used to screw it down to the inside of the glovebox opening.  Wetted the leather prior to forming.

Buffed it up and burnished the edges.  Then finished with an acrylic top coat.

Used masking tape to transfer the screw holes to the leather.

Also added a bonded nylon door stop to keep the door from swing all the way open.

Hope this helps.
Mike