Saturday, May 12, 2018

CJ7 Drink Holder



I've been thinking about drink holders for over a year.  Nothing on the market fits a 32 oz. stainless cup and when the dog is in the jeep, there is no place inside.

This is what I came up with:

Materials:
2 each - Rubber Drain Collar - Femco P1056-33 - 3" x 3" - Lowe's Hardware
4 each - Stainless Flat Socket Head Bolts - 5/16-18 x 3/4" - Ace Hardware
Thread Locker
Paracord - For Handles

32 oz Bubba Envy stainless insulated cup

Procedure:
Remove bands from collar.

Use a tri-square,to mark a perpendicular line down the side of the collar.

Find the vertical center of the collar and mark.  Then mark 7/8" above and 7/8" below the center mark.  You should now have two points 1 3/4" apart.

Added some wood blocking inside the collar and then used a 5/16" leather punch.  This left perfectly round 5/16" holes.

Remove the existing bolts from the lower door hinge pin mount.  Add some thread locker to the threads of the new flat head bolts and run them into the existing lower door pin hardware.  The flat heads flush up pretty well due to the countersinking in the door mounting plate.

The collar distorts slightly against the door pin receiver, but not enough to make a difference and the cup looks perfectly vertical and the holder perfectly round when the cup is inserted.  The cup slides easily in and out of the collar and does not rub against the flat heads.



I may add a clear stick-on door bumper on the cowl to keep the cup from touching the body.  It is close to 3/8" clear between the cup and the body, but a hard bump or gust of wind might be enough for them to contact each other.

Made a 32" four strand round braid and heat welded it into a loop.  Used two 96" lengths of paracord.

Wrapped the loop around the cup and collected the center section into a loop locating the splice in the handle area.

Using a single 108" length of paracord, I collected the two parts of the handle in a king cobra weave.

Using another 108" length of contrasting color, I overlaid the first king cobra weave with another king cobra weave.

Here is the finished product.  I placed a self stick clear cabinet door bumper on the body to prevent any chafing.

Hope this helps,
Mike

Monday, April 23, 2018

CJ7 Cab Cover

Decided to make my own cab cover for the Jeep.

Materials:
Sailrite.com
Sunbrella - 60" x 25'
Thread - Tex 138 Bonded Nylon
Double Sided Tape #129

Needle - #20
Painter's Tape

Procedure:
Lay out two 60" x 152" panels of fabric.

Line up long edges.  Using double sided tape, baste good sides facing each other.  One long edge only.

Had to open up the machine to drop the presser foot bar for the fabric feed group.  Installed the presser foot, needle feed dog and lower feed dog.  Here I'm setting the stitch length, stitch tension, and presser foot pressure.

Flat felled the seam between the two 60" panels.  Centered the seam on the roll bar.  Next is to mark the pleats at the windshield.

Here I rolled the fabric at the edges of the windshield and held it there with some spring clamps.  I then used a wax seam marker to mark the edge of the windshield frame on either side of the dart.

Note that after centering the main seam on the roll bar, I taped the fabric at the bottom of the windshield frame before gathering the material for the darts.  This kept the cover square on the jeep and provided some tension to pull against when marking the darts.

Marked straight lines for the dart seam and then added 5/8" seam allowance.

Cut the fabric on the seam allowance lines and marked the apex of the dart on the back side of the fabric.

Marked the seam allowance for a double rolled seam across the bottom of the windshield frame and used two sided tape to help hold it in place for sewing.

Taped the cover back on the Jeep and clamped at the wheel wells to mark the dart running from the roll bar to the corner of the tub.  Gathered, clamped, and marked as before.

Sewed from the corner of the tub up to the apex of the dart.

Put the cover on the Jeep and marked from the corner of the tub to the corner of the taillight and continued sewing the dart.  Then put the cover back on the Jeep and marked from top corner of the taillight diagonally to the bottom corner of the taillight and sewed again.

Using painters tape to position the cover on the Jeep and to provide some tension, I proceeded to outline the tub on the fabric.

I then marked the seam locations and added fro the 1" double rolled hem.

Decided to come up at an angle from below the door well to a horizontal line above the wheel well to the back corner of the tub.  To mark the rear hems, I'll need to actually tension the top in place so decided to make the 6 shock cord attach points (2 on each side under the door well and 1 at each taillight).

Took two strips of 2" webbing, overlapped it, to end up with a 3" wide panel as a backing to the 1" webbing strips that will anchor the D-rings.  Decided to use two D-rings, one vertical for use with a hook, and one horizontal allowing the shock cord to be tied on.

Made a wrap for the D-ring panel out of the matching Sunbrella.  Here it is cut out and marked for the folds.  The corners were clipped off to reduce bulk.

The attach panel ready to be sewn.


 Cut some 1/4" shock cord and used some adjustable cord hooks.  Here are a couple of shots of the cover on our recent trip.  

This took longer than I thought, but it fits pretty well, and worked like a charm.  I may add another D-ring attach point just ahead of the spare tire to prevent a heavy rain from pooling on the cover allowing water to fill the tub.  If I do, I'll add a photo later.

Hope you found this useful.
Mike

Monday, April 16, 2018

CJ7 Fuel Tank Fill & Vent Hose Replacement

When installing the new rear bumper I noticed that the fill and vent hoses were hard and cracked.


Ordered a new MTS set from Barney's Jeep Parts on ebay.

Fuel Tank Fill Hose • MTS CJFHCJ7-20
Fuel Tank Vent Hose • MTS CJVHCJ7-20
These are for the OEM 20 gallon plastic tank.





Friday, April 13, 2018

CJ7 Dog Harness

Decided to come up with a dog harness and restraint for the Jeep.

I first designed and made a cushion in the console area for Cooper, my English Bull Terrier, to sit comfortably when we take off for the mountains.


The rest of this post is a work in progress as I figure it out...

Seatbelt:
Jontay.com
3 Yards - 1" Heavyweight Polypropelene Webbing • W-PP-01 1000
2 each - 1" Single Adjusting Side Release Buckle • B-SR-02 1000
1 each - 1" Stainless Welded D-Ring • B-DR-02WS 1000
1 each - 1" Wide Mouth Single Bar Slides • B-SB-02 1000


Found these 1" webbing anchors from Raingler.com
These will mount to the rear inside seat riser bolts.

Harness:
xx Yards - 1" Heavyweight Polypropelene Webbing • W-PP-01 1000
1 each - 1" Contoured Single Adjusting Side Release Buckle • B-SR-03 1000
2 each - 1" Wide Mouth Single Bar Slides • B-SB-02 1000
2 each - 1" Heavy Ladder Locks • B-DB-02USA 1000
3 each - 1" Stainless Welded D-Ring • B-DR-02WS 1000


Seat Belt Construction:

The easiest way to cut webbing is to use an electric soldering gun like a Weller or this cheap Harbor Freight unit.  Take a piece of 10 gauge (12 will work) solid copper wire, flatten a section of it with a hammer and shape it like shown above.  I used the ground wire from a scrap piece of household Romex.  Insert it into the soldering gun and it will cut and melt the edge at the same time.  Works as well as units costing $150.

Here is the anchor loosely bolted into position.

Used 92 bonded nylon thread to stitch an "X" box to secure the 1" webbing to the anchors.

Used two sided basting tape from Sailrite.com to hold the webbing in place prior to stitching.

Wrapped a length of 1" webbing through each buckle.  Buckle to buckle is 1 1/2".  Triple stitched each end.

Wrapped another piece of webbing around the first for the D-ring.  It is easier to mark the "X" box prior to stitching.

Used Tex 92 bonded poly black thread and a #22 needle to stitch the "X" box.

Here is the finished product after securing the anchors to the seat riser bolts.  By using two buckles it iis easy to center the D-ring on the cushion.  In use, only one buckle needs to be released in order to insert or remove the cushion.

Close up off the finished D-Ring assembly.


Harness Construction:

Put some painters tape on the dog and drew up a rough pattern with a sharpie.  Peeled it off and stuck it down flat on some paper.  Then drew a line up the center and cut along the line.

Take the better looking side and, on a folded piece of pattern paper, trace the outline with a pencil.

Using a pencil and eraser, clean up the curves and then cut it out; being careful not to cut the fold.

Unfold it and you'll have the breast plate pattern.  The lengths of the three  legs still need to be trimmed, but that will happen in the next process.


More to come...