Saturday, January 26, 2019

CJ7 New Rear Shackles and Bushings

The shackles on my CJ7 are frozen solid at the pivots and shackles.  The bushings are shot and the shackles are flimsy.

Decided to go with Warrior 120 and 121 shackles.  They are 1/4" thick steel with a welded center brace and provide 1/2" lift.

I purchased the bushings and shackles for both the front and rear.  I'll do the front later.

  • Shackles • Front 1/2" Lift • Warrior 121
  • Shackles • Rear 1/2" Lift • Warrior 120
  • Shackle Bushings/Spring Eye Kit • Front • Prothane • 1-1002-BL
  • Shackle Bushings/Spring Eye Kit • Rear • Prothane • 1-1003-BL













Here is the process:

Had to cut the nuts and heads off the shackles and then cut one shackle side in half to get them off!  Removed the rear shackle hanger.

Rear end of leaf spring free.  Wood blocks support axle.

Had to use a hole saw to cut the bushing out.  They were hard as concrete.

Never install shocks over painted pins...!!!  Took me two days to get them off.  Shocks have only 5k miles on them so no reason not to save them.

Made a roll up paint booth.  Got tired of cleaning up overspray.

Cleaned up the spring plate and the shackle hangers, edge ground, cleaned up the threads, polished the pins, etc..  Painted with Krylon, direct to metal, semi-gloss black.  Nice paint.  Nice build.  Lays down beautifully.

Wire wheeled the leaf springs and painted them with the Krylon.

Had to knock out the sleeves to fit the poly bushings.

Parts cleaned, painted, and ready to put back in.

1/2" U-bolts installed.  Perches are 3/8" wider than pivots which increases to 3/4" at the shackles.  Mid-year 1986 CJ7's received Dana 44 rear axles, but the perches were wide.  

Side view of leaf springs, axle, pivot, and shackles.  You can see the twist in the spring.  This has been the case for over 32 years.

The picture does not reflect how much the shackles are pivoted outward.  I decided to have new heavy duty perches installed to align with the pivots.  This corrected the problem, but the springs had taken a set over such an extended period of time.

Decided to swap the springs left for right which corrected most of the problem.  The shackles now cant slightly inward.  I'm hoping they will relax.  The only perfect fix at this point would be new springs.  I'm calling this good for now.

The interesting thing is that now, in 40 mph flat turns, the Jeep settles in nicely.  Before this project the Jeep would skid and felt like it wanted to roll over.  Another unexpected result is that the dead spot in the steering is almost gone.  I'm anxious to get the front springs, shackles, and bushings done to see if there is even better steering performance.

Tuesday, January 22, 2019

CJ7 Dana 30 and Dana 44 Differential Service

Decided to change the gear oil in the, Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear, differentials.

Procedure:
  1. Place floor jack on differential and lift to get wheels just off the ground.
  2. Place jack stands just inward of frame/leaf spring pivots.
  3. Remove differential cover bolts (leaving the top bolt loosely threaded into bell housing).
  4. Gently tap the cover to the left and right to break the seal.  Cover will hang on bolt.
  5. Have an oil pan ready.  The gear oil will drop when the seal is broken.
  6. Slightly jack up each axle, one at a time to drain the oil into the differential.
  7. Clean both faces of housing and cover with acetone.
  8. Spray liberal amounts of brake cleaner in the differential and all of it gears.  Spin the tires to rotate the gears.
  9. Mop up any debris and cleaner from the bottom of the differential with a towel.  Allow to completely dry.
  10. Glue down some 80 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and lap the face of the cover flat.
  11. Paint the bell housing face and one side of the gasket (Fel-Pro RDS-55019-Dana 30)(Fel-Pro RDS-6629_Dana 44) with Indian Head Gasket Shellac and apply gasket to housing being careful to align bolt holes.  Press the gasket down flat.
  12. Apply the shellac to the exposed side of the gasket and the cover, then place the cover on the housing being careful to align bolt holes.
  13. Finger tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then snug them with a torque wrench to 15 ft/lbs., again in a criss cross pattern.
  14. Wait overnight and torque them to 20-25 ft/lbs.
Front • Dana 30






Rear • Dana 44
Jacked it up onto a couple of stands, removed the cover, and green slime poured out.  Took four cans of brake clean to clean up the gears.  The cover was rusted outside and part of the inside was pitted.

Wire wheeled the cover and lapped the mounting surface flat, then painted with Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum #DE1650 engine enamel like I did the front cover.  I'll paint the bolts black.  They are currently soaking in Evap-O-Rust.




Cover mounted and filled with gear oil.

Jeep CJ7 Steering Box Brace

Decided to upgrade the wimpy stock steering box brace with one from M.O.R.E. in an effort to fix the dead spot in the steering.  We'll see.

I ordered the raw steel one (they also have a yellow zinc coated version) and painted it with Krylon, direct to metal, semi-gloss paint.  The paint goes on nice and thin, lays down beautifully.  It is a bit glossier than I expected, but a nice finish.  The next day it is dry.  I'm letting it cure for a few days before installing.

I ground/filed all of the edges for better paint adhesion.


More to come...

Monday, January 21, 2019

CJ7 Phone Mount

Wanted a simple and solid phone mount for the Jeep.  Decided on a Ram-Mount X-Grip system.

It mounts into an existing threaded dash mounting bolt hole (1/4-20) above the speedometer.

It is adjustable using the double socket mount arm and the X-Grip adjusts to fit most smart phones and dampens any vibration while running down the road.

1" Ball Mount w/1/4-20 Threaded Post • RAM-B-237U

Adjustable Double Socket Arm • RAM-B-201U-A




Thursday, January 10, 2019

CJ7 Heater Duct Modification

Purchased a new heat duct designed to spread the heat in a wider pattern, but it basically sends all the heat out the door openings...

Crown Automotive 55035618 Floor Heater Duct

Modified it to send the heat toward the seats.  Marked and cut 1/4" wide slots with a band saw and capped the side openings with Kydex and some J-B Plastic Bonder.




Wednesday, January 9, 2019

Third Hand - Welding

Welded up a third hand using a block of steel I found and some 1/2" rod.  Decided to use a rolling rod instead of two legs on the back side so it could span the slots in my table.  Ground a flat blade "screwdriver" tip to hold parts in place.

Getting better with the welder (inset).